Part 49 - How to Draft Both Bust Darts on One Shoulder
In this video, Izzy demonstrates how to manipulate darts, specifically bust darts, by rotating two bust darts onto one shoulder of a bodice block. This technique creates an asymmetric look and adds a unique design element.
Izzy begins by outlining the tools required and emphasizes that the video focuses on the visual aesthetics of dart manipulation. She instructs viewers to trace two front bodice blocks and tape them together to accommodate the movement of both darts.
The video then shows how to close the existing side bust darts and create new darts from the shoulder to the Apex. Izzy guides viewers through dividing the shoulder seam into thirds and drawing lines from two of these points to the respective Apex points.
Next, Izzy demonstrates how to close one of the original bust darts and open the corresponding shoulder dart, transferring the volume. She then closes the other original bust dart, leaving both darts concentrated on one shoulder.
The video then shows how to find the center of the new shoulder darts and offset the point by 2cm from the Apex for a smoother curve. Izzy guides viewers through creating the pattern piece, including adding seam allowances to the shoulder, neckline, side seams, and waistline, and annotating the pattern piece with grain lines, Apex markings, and pattern name.
The tutorial progresses with instructions on sewing the shoulder darts and assembling the front and back bodice pieces. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including pinning and sewing the darts, pressing the seams, and attaching the side and shoulder seams. She also encourages viewers to refer to a previous video for more detailed guidance on sewing darts.
Izzy concludes by showcasing the finished garment with both darts concentrated on one shoulder, highlighting the unique and dramatic effect.
Watch next: Darts - How to Draft Asymmetrical Darts