Part 48 - How to Draft a Centre Front Bust Dart
In this video, Izzy demonstrates how to rotate a bust dart to the center front of a bodice block, creating a seam down the front. This is a technical exercise focused on dart manipulation, not creating a finished garment.
Izzy begins by outlining the tools required, including a bespoke bodice block. She emphasises that the video focuses on the technical exercise of dart manipulation, not creating a finished garment.
The video then shows how to draw a line perpendicular to the center front, intersecting with the Apex. The existing bust dart is closed, and the center front dart is opened, pivoting at the Apex. Izzy explains that this process transfers the volume from the bust dart to the new centre front dart location.
Next, Izzy demonstrates how to find the center of the new dart and offset the point by 2cm from the Apex for a smoother curve. She then guides viewers through creating the pattern piece, including adding a 1.5cm seam allowance to the centre front, shoulder, and side seams, and annotating the pattern piece with grain lines, Apex markings, and pattern name.
The tutorial progresses with instructions on sewing the center front dart and assembling the front and back bodice pieces. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including pinning and sewing the dart, pressing the seams, and attaching the side and shoulder seams. She also encourages viewers to refer to a previous video for more detailed guidance on sewing darts.
Izzy concludes by showcasing the finished garment with the centre front dart, highlighting the strong linear look it creates.
Watch next: Darts - Both Bust Darts on One Shoulder