Part 47 - How to Draft a French Dart
In this video, Izzy demonstrates how to create a French dart using dart manipulation on a bodice block. This technique involves pivoting the bust dart down to originate from the side seam at the waist level, creating a flattering diagonal dart.
Izzy begins by outlining the tools required and emphasizes that this video focuses on the technical exercise of dart manipulation, not creating a finished garment. She instructs viewers to trace their bodice block before making any alterations.
The video then shows how to draw a line from the corner where the waist and side seam meet directly to the Apex, which will be the new dart location. The existing bust dart is closed, and the French dart is opened, pivoting at the Apex. Izzy explains that this process transfers the volume from the bust dart to the new French dart location.
Next, Izzy demonstrates how to find the center of the new dart and offset the point by 2cm from the Apex for a smoother curve. She then guides viewers through creating the pattern piece, including adding seam allowances to the shoulder and side seams, and annotating the pattern piece with grain lines, Apex markings, and pattern name.
The tutorial progresses with instructions on sewing the French dart and assembling the front and back bodice pieces. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including pinning and sewing the dart, addressing any excess fabric at the bottom, and pressing the seams. She also encourages viewers to refer to a previous video for more detailed guidance on sewing darts.
Izzy concludes by showcasing the finished garment with the French dart, highlighting its flattering aesthetic.
Watch next: Darts - Centre Front Bust Dart