04/03/2024

Part 43 - How to Draft an Armscye Bodice Dart

In this video, Izzy demonstrates how to rotate a bust dart from the neckline to the armhole of a bodice block. This is part of a miniseries exploring the effects of different dart placements on garment aesthetics.

Izzy begins by emphasizing the importance of tracing a copy of the bespoke bodice block before making any alterations. She then guides viewers through the process of moving the dart, starting by marking a point on the armhole (in this case, halfway down). A line is drawn from this point to the Apex, creating the new dart placement.

The original neckline dart is closed, and the armhole dart is opened, transferring the volume. Izzy explains that the amount of fabric covering the bust remains the same; only the dart's location and length change. She demonstrates how to find the centre of the new dart and offset the point by 2cm from the Apex for a smoother curve.

The video then covers creating the pattern piece, including adding seam allowances to the shoulder and side seams, but not the armhole. Izzy emphasizes the importance of accurate tracing, marking the Apex, and annotating the pattern piece. She also guides viewers through creating the back bodice pattern piece, adding seam allowances to the centre back, shoulder, and side seams.

The tutorial progresses with instructions on cutting out the pattern pieces from Calico, sewing the darts, and assembling the front and back bodice. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including pressing the darts and seams.

Izzy concludes by encouraging viewers to share their work and discuss their favorite dart placements. She highlights the educational and creative aspects of dart manipulation and invites viewers to explore other pattern drafting videos on the channel.

Watch next: Darts - Neckline Bodice Dart

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Part 42 - Mastering the Side Seam Bodice Dart

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Part 44 - How to Draft a Neckline Bodice Dart