04/03/2024

Part 42 - Mastering the Side Seam Bodice Dart

In this video, Izzy continues the dart manipulation series, demonstrating how to move a dart from the neckline to the side seam of a bodice block. She emphasises that this is a technical exercise to understand the visual impact of dart placement, not a tutorial for creating a finished garment.

Izzy guides viewers through the process, starting with tracing the front bodice block. She instructs viewers to measure the side seam, mark the midpoint, and draw a line from that point to the Apex. The original neckline dart is then closed, and the new side seam dart is opened, transferring the volume.

Izzy explains that while the Apex is often the dart point on a block, pattern drafting usually involves offsetting the dart point by 2cm to create a smoother curve over the bust. She demonstrates how to adjust the dart length accordingly.

The video then covers creating the pattern piece, including adding seam allowances, grain lines, and annotations. Izzy emphasises the importance of marking the Apex and labelling the pattern piece. She also shows how to add a notch line to the side seam for accurate alignment.

The tutorial progresses with instructions on cutting out the pattern pieces from Calico, sewing the darts, and assembling the front and back bodice. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including pressing the darts and seams.

Izzy concludes by encouraging viewers to share their work and experiments, highlighting the educational and creative aspects of dart manipulation. She also mentions future videos in the series, promising more dart manipulation techniques.

Watch next: Darts - Armscye Bodice Dart

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Part 41 - Bodice Block Alterations - Centre Shoulder Bodice Dart

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Part 43 - How to Draft an Armscye Bodice Dart