04/03/2024

Part 41 - Bodice Block Alterations - Centre Shoulder Bodice Dart

In this video, Izzy introduces a series on dart manipulation, focusing on how moving dart placements affects the look and fit of a bodice block. She emphasises that this series is about exploring technical aspects and visual impacts, not creating finished garments.

Izzy begins by demonstrating how to rotate a bust dart from the neck to the shoulder seam. Viewers are instructed to trace their front bodice block (not the back) and mark the midpoint of the shoulder seam. A line is then drawn from this point to the Apex, creating the new dart placement. The original bust dart is closed, pivoting at the Apex, and the shoulder dart is opened, transferring the volume.

Izzy explains that for pattern drafting, the dart point is typically offset from the Apex by about 2cm to create a smoother curve. She demonstrates how to adjust the dart length accordingly. The modified pattern piece is then created, including seam allowances, grain lines, and annotations.

The video continues with instructions on sewing the darts and assembling the front and back bodice pieces. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including pressing the darts and seams, and encourages them to try on the finished Calico sample to observe the effect of the shoulder dart.

Izzy highlights the fun and educational nature of dart manipulation, emphasizing that it allows for creative exploration of different dart placements and their aesthetic impacts. She encourages viewers to experiment and find dart locations that they find flattering.

Watch next: Darts - Side Seam Bodice Dart

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Part 40 - Bodice Block Alterations - Uneven Shoulder Fix

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Part 42 - Mastering the Side Seam Bodice Dart