Part 46 - How to Draft a Princess Seam
In this video, Izzy demonstrates how to create a princess seam using dart manipulation on a bodice block. She focuses on adapting the front bodice pattern piece to achieve a flattering and complementary princess seam.
Izzy begins by outlining the tools required, including a bespoke bodice block. She clarifies that this video focuses on dart manipulation, not creating a finished garment, and mentions that other aspects like sleeves, collars, and cuffs will be covered in later episodes.
She then guides viewers through the process of transforming the existing waist and bust darts into a princess seam. This involves finding the midpoint of the waist dart and drawing a line to the Apex, creating new dart lines from the bottom of the dart to the Apex, and marking the midpoint of the shoulder seam.
The video demonstrates how to rotate the darts, cut out the existing dart volumes, and create two separate pattern pieces for the princess seam. Izzy emphasizes the importance of creating a smooth curve along the seam and adjusting the pattern pieces to maintain accurate measurements.
She then shows how to add seam allowances to the pattern pieces and annotate them with grain lines, notches, and pattern names. Izzy also guides viewers through creating the back bodice pattern piece with seam allowances.
The tutorial progresses with instructions on cutting out the pattern pieces from Calico, sewing the darts, and assembling the front and back bodice. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including pinning and sewing the princess seam, clipping the curves, pressing the seams, and attaching the side and shoulder seams.
Izzy concludes by showcasing the finished garment with the princess seam, highlighting its elegant and flattering effect. She encourages viewers to update their bodice blocks with their dart manipulations and share their creations with the community, emphasising the value of learning and sharing pattern drafting skills.
Watch next: Darts - How to Draft a French Dart