Part 52 - How to Draft a Pleated Top
In this video, Izzy demonstrates how to create a pleated top using a bespoke bodice block. The tutorial focuses on adapting the block to incorporate pleats across the front and back, adding volume while maintaining a fitted silhouette.
Izzy begins by outlining the tools required and instructs viewers to trace their front and back bodice blocks, ensuring they are aligned at the underarm and waist.
The video then shows how to draw a panel line on the front bodice, creating a separate section for the pleats. Izzy guides viewers through marking points on the waist and armhole, drawing a curved line, and adding notches for reference.
Next, Izzy demonstrates how to close the bust dart and create a yoke line on the front bodice. She then shows how to create a yoke line on the back bodice, close the shoulder dart, and transfer its volume to the yoke seam.
The tutorial progresses with instructions on adding pleats to the back bodice. Izzy guides viewers through dividing the back bodice width into thirds, marking pleat lines, and cutting along these lines. She then shows how to spread the pattern pieces, adding volume for the pleats, and marking notches for accurate sewing.
Izzy then demonstrates how to add pleats to the front bodice, repeating the process of marking pleat lines, cutting, and spreading the pattern pieces. She also shows how to close the remaining dart and mark notches for the pleat folds.
The video then guides viewers through creating the pattern pieces, including adding seam allowances to the yoke seams, side seams, and shoulder seams. Izzy emphasizes the importance of accurately transferring notches and annotating the pattern pieces with grain lines and pattern names.
The tutorial progresses with instructions on sewing the pleats, starting with the back bodice and then moving to the front. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including folding and pinning the pleats, basting them in place, and attaching the yokes.
Izzy then demonstrates how to sew the side and shoulder seams, and press the seam allowances. She concludes by showcasing the finished pleated top, highlighting the added volume and the fitted silhouette. She encourages viewers to share their progress and comments, emphasising the value of learning pattern drafting techniques.
Watch next: Tops - How to Draft a Draped Top