09/09/2024

Part 60 - How to Draft a Grown on Collar

In this video, Izzy demonstrates how to create a grown-on collar using a bespoke bodice block.

Izzy begins by outlining the tools required and instructs viewers to trace their front and back bodice blocks. She also instructs viewers to alter the front block to have a combined waist dart.

The tutorial starts by creating a dart in the neckline area of the front bodice and transferring its volume to the waist dart. Izzy then marks the button stand and buttonhole positions.

Next, Izzy demonstrates how to shape the collar by extending the shoulder seam and overlapping the back bodice with the front. She then shows how to define the collar's roll line and shape. Izzy also shows how to create the facing, which is slightly wider than the collar for a better fit.

The video progresses with instructions on creating pattern pieces for the front bodice, facing, and back bodice, including adding seam allowances and annotations.

The tutorial progresses with instructions on sewing the darts, attaching the facing pieces, sewing the shoulder seams, clipping the neckline curve, attaching the facing to the bodice, and sewing the side seams. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including trimming and clipping the seams.

Izzy concludes by showcasing the finished grown-on collar top, highlighting its elegance and the unique shaping techniques used.

Watch next: Collars - How to Draft a Classic Shirt Collar

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Part 59 - How to Draft a Flat Collar with a Low Neckline

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Part 61 - How to Draft a Classic Shirt Collar