04/03/2024

Part 37 - Bodice Block Alterations - Balance for an Upright Figure

This video focuses on adjusting a bodice block for an upright figure. Izzy explains that an upright posture can cause garments to appear tilted, with the bust and waist lines sitting higher than they should.

She begins by explaining how to identify an upright figure fit issue, suggesting viewers examine their posture in a mirror and observe how garments hang. Izzy recommends marking the bust line on a toile and assessing if it remains level while moving.

The video then moves to the pattern alteration process. Izzy recommends tracing the front bodice block onto paper for the alteration. She demonstrates how to temporarily close the neckline dart, transferring its volume to the side seam.

Izzy explains that the goal is to add volume to the center front of the bodice to accommodate the upright posture. She recommends determining the amount of volume to add by measuring how much the waistline is shifted up on the toile.

Izzy demonstrates how to extend the center front line and mark the desired volume increase. She then shows how to pivot the pattern along the cut line, aligning it with the marked increase.

Izzy then demonstrates how to redraw the pattern, adjusting the dart and extending the center front to accommodate the added volume. She also shows how to find the new Apex point, ensuring both dart legs are the same length.

Finally, Izzy explains how to reopen the neckline dart and transfer the adjusted pattern markings onto a fresh piece of paper. She emphasises the importance of truing up the side seam for a smooth finish.

Watch next: Fit Alterations - Balance for a Stooped Figure 

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Part 36 – Bodice Block Alterations – Full Bust Adjustment

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Part 38 - Bodice Block Alterations - Balance for a Stooped Figure