04/03/2024

Part 30 – Bodice Block Alterations – Shoulder Length Alterations

This video focuses on adjusting the shoulder length of a bodice block, addressing situations where the shoulder is either too long or too short. Izzy emphasises the importance of accurately identifying the shoulder point, which is crucial for proper fit.

She begins by explaining how to determine if the shoulder length needs adjustment, emphasizing that it should align with the natural curve of the shoulder. Izzy then demonstrates how to mark the desired shoulder length on a toile, indicating the necessary reduction.

The video transitions to the pattern alteration process. Izzy shows how to measure the difference between the existing and desired shoulder lengths and transfer these measurements onto the paper pattern for both the front and back bodice pieces.

She then demonstrates how to adjust the armscye curve to seamlessly connect with the shortened shoulder seam. Izzy explains how to mark reference points along the armscye, using measurements taken from the toile, to guide the redrawing of the curve.

Izzy emphasizes the importance of maintaining a smooth curve and provides tips for achieving this. She then demonstrates the same process for the back bodice piece.

Izzy concludes by explaining that the process can be reversed to lengthen the shoulder seam if needed. She also cautions against overfitting the block, emphasizing that the goal is to achieve a generally good fit rather than perfection. She encourages viewers to explore other fitting videos in the series and reminds them that these adjustments are foundational for further design alterations.

Watch next: Bodice Fit Alterations - Square Shoulder Adjustment

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Part 29 - Bodice Block Alterations - Shoulder Seam Alignment

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Part 31 - Bodice Block Alterations - Square Shoulder Adjustment