04/03/2024

Part 31 - Bodice Block Alterations - Square Shoulder Adjustment

This video focuses on adjusting a bodice block for square shoulders. Izzy explains that square shoulders can cause fabric to pull and create drag lines, particularly at the shoulder area.

She begins by explaining that the adjustment involves adding volume to the shoulder area to accommodate the straighter shoulder shape. Izzy recommends starting with a small adjustment, such as 1 or 2 cm, as it's easier to add more later if needed.

The video then moves to the pattern alteration process. Izzy demonstrates how to use the "slash and spread" technique on the front bodice pattern. She shows how to draw a line from the neck point to the armscye, cut along this line, and then pivot the pattern to create the desired volume increase at the shoulder point.

Izzy then demonstrates how to redraw the armscye curve to seamlessly connect with the adjusted shoulder point, ensuring the armscye length remains consistent. She emphasises the importance of using a pattern curve ruler to achieve a smooth line.

The process is then repeated for the back bodice pattern. Izzy shows how to draw a line through the back dart, cut along this line, and pivot the pattern to create the necessary volume increase. She also demonstrates how to adjust the back dart to maintain its shape and length.

Izzy emphasises the importance of transferring the adjusted pattern markings onto the original bodice block, either by tracing or using carbon paper.

Watch next: Fit Alterations - Raise or Lower Armscye

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Part 30 – Bodice Block Alterations – Shoulder Length Alterations

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Part 32 - Bodice Block Alterations - Sloping Shoulder Adjustment