04/03/2024

Part 35 – Bodice Block Alterations – Rounded Back Adjustment

This video focuses on adjusting a bodice block for a rounded back. Izzy explains that a rounded back can cause drag lines across the upper back and shoulders, as well as the garment riding up at the waist.

She begins by explaining how to identify a rounded back fit issue, noting the telltale signs of drag lines and garment riding. Izzy then demonstrates how to trace the back bodice pattern onto tracing paper.

The video then transitions to the pattern alteration process. Izzy shows how to draw a line perpendicular to the center back, cutting through the bottom of the dart. She then demonstrates how to cut along this line, creating a pivot point at the armscye.

Izzy explains that the goal is to add volume to the back bodice to accommodate the rounded back shape. She recommends starting with a small adjustment, such as 2 cm, and then adjusting as needed.

Izzy demonstrates how to place a piece of paper under the tracing paper and mark the desired volume increase. She then shows how to pivot the pattern along the cut line, aligning it with the marked increase.

Izzy explains that this adjustment increases the dart size and adds volume to the back bodice, effectively accommodating the rounded back shape. She then demonstrates how to redraw the centre back and neckline lines to create a new pattern shape.

Finally, Izzy explains how to transfer the adjusted pattern markings onto the original bodice block, either by tracing or using carbon paper. She emphasises the importance of accurately marking the alterations.

Izzy concludes by highlighting the usefulness of this alteration for various patterns.

Watch next: Fit alterations - Full Bust Adjustment

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Part 34 - Bodice Block Alterations - Gaping Armhole Fix

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Part 36 – Bodice Block Alterations – Full Bust Adjustment