Part 34 - Bodice Block Alterations - Gaping Armhole Fix
This video focuses on adjusting a bodice block for a gaping armhole. This issue presents as excess fabric and volume at the front armscye, causing the garment to sit away from the body.
Izzy begins by demonstrating how to pin out the excess fabric on a toile, ensuring the garment sits smoothly against the body. She emphasises pinning towards the bust apex to accurately gauge the amount of volume to remove.
The video then transitions to the pattern alteration process. Izzy explains that the goal is to create a dart in the armscye to remove the excess volume, but since the block already has a bust and waist dart, she demonstrates how to manipulate the existing bust dart to incorporate the extra volume.
Izzy shows how to trace the front bodice pattern onto tracing paper and mark the area of the armscye that needs adjustment. She then demonstrates how to measure the amount of volume to remove at various points along the armscye and create a temporary dart on the tracing paper.
Next, Izzy demonstrates how to close the temporary dart and transfer its volume into the existing bust dart. She shows how to cut along the dart lines and pivot the pattern to close the temporary dart, effectively increasing the size of the bust dart.
Izzy then demonstrates how to redraw the armscye curve to smooth out any unevenness caused by the dart manipulation. She emphasises the importance of using a pattern curve ruler or eyeballing the curve to achieve a natural shape.
Finally, Izzy explains how to transfer the adjusted pattern markings onto the original bodice block, either by tracing or using carbon paper.
Watch next: Fit Adjustments - Rounded Back Adjustment