03/11/2023

Part 26 - Bodice Block Alterations - Neckline Width

This Minerva video, led by Izzy, focuses on adjusting the neckline of a bodice block, specifically addressing issues of the neckline being too tight or too loose. Izzy emphasises that the neckline should comfortably sit at the junction of the neck and torso.

She explains that a tight neckline will necessitate adding volume, while a loose neckline will require removing excess fabric. Izzy also highlights the importance of ensuring the neckline's placement aligns with the natural contours of the body, potentially requiring adjustments to its height.

The video demonstrates how to make these adjustments on the paper pattern. Izzy explains that the process is the same for both tightening and loosening the neckline, with the key being to accurately measure the required change. She then shows how to adjust the back neckline by raising or lowering it as needed.

For the more complex front neckline adjustment, Izzy demonstrates how to temporarily move the bust dart out of the way to allow for easier manipulation of the neckline. She then shows how to lower the neckline by a specific amount, redrawing the neckline curve and adjusting the shoulder seam length to match the back. Finally, she demonstrates how to reposition the bust dart to its correct location, noting that its position changes due to the neckline adjustment.

Izzy concludes by emphasising the importance of transferring the adjusted pattern markings onto the original bodice block, using a coloured pen to clearly distinguish the changes.

Watch next: Fit Alterations - Back Neck Too Tight

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Part 25 - Bodice Block Alterations - Hollow Chest

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Part 27 – Bodice Block Alterations – Back Neck Too Tight