03/11/2023

Part 25 - Bodice Block Alterations - Hollow Chest

This video demonstrates how to adjust a bodice block for a hollow chest fit. This alteration addresses the issue of excess fabric pooling in the upper chest area, often accompanied by gapping at the neckline.

Izzy begins by explaining how to identify a hollow chest fit issue, noting the telltale signs of excess fabric and gapping. She then proceeds to show how to pin out the excess volume on a toile to determine the amount of fabric that needs to be removed.

The video then moves to the pattern alteration process. Izzy demonstrates how to trace the front bodice block onto tracing paper and temporarily close the bust dart to manipulate the shoulder line. She explains that this allows for adjustments to the neckline and shoulder without affecting the dart.

Izzy then shows how to measure the amount of fabric pinned out on the toile and transfer this measurement to the pattern. She demonstrates how to lower the neckline and shoulder line by the appropriate amount, redrawing the neckline curve and shoulder seam. She emphasizes the importance of maintaining the original shoulder length.

Finally, Izzy shows how to reopen the bust dart and transfer the adjusted pattern markings onto the original bodice block, using a colored pen to distinguish the alterations. She concludes by reminding viewers that this is one of many fit alterations that may be necessary and encourages them to explore other videos in the series.

Watch next: Neckline Width Alterations

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Part 24 - Bodice Block Alterations - Bust Apex

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Part 26 - Bodice Block Alterations - Neckline Width