Part 24 - Bodice Block Alterations - Bust Apex
This video, hosted by Izzy, focuses on adjusting the apex location of a bodice block to improve fit around the bust area. Izzy explains that while the apex is initially measured during the body block drafting, it may need to be adjusted higher or lower based on the toile fitting.
She details how to identify if the apex is too high or too low, noting that a high apex will result in tension and crease lines above the bust, while a low apex will create sag lines and drag lines across the bust area. Izzy then demonstrates how to adjust the apex on the paper pattern.
Using a front bodice block and tracing paper, she shows how to measure the difference between the original and desired apex locations. She then explains how to raise the apex by this amount, redrawing the bust dart to reflect the new position. Izzy also emphasizes the importance of adjusting the waist dart accordingly, ensuring it remains a consistent distance below the new apex.
The video provides clear instructions for both raising and lowering the apex, emphasizing that the principles are the same regardless of direction. Izzy concludes by reminding viewers that multiple fitting adjustments may be necessary and encourages them to explore other videos in the series to address additional fit issues.
Watch next: Hollow Chest Alterations