09/09/2024

Part 61 - How to Draft a Classic Shirt Collar

In this video, Izzy demonstrates how to create a standing collar, a traditional collar with a stand, using a standard bodice block.

Izzy begins by outlining the tools required and instructs viewers to trace their bodice block, using a combined waist dart. She mentions that detailed instructions on shirt openings will be covered in future videos, but a brief overview is provided in this video.

The tutorial starts by lowering the neckline by 1cm. Izzy then guides viewers through drafting the collar on a separate piece of paper, using measurements taken from the bodice block. She demonstrates how to calculate and draw the collar stand and the collar itself, including marking button and buttonhole positions. Izzy also shows how to create the under collar, which is slightly smaller than the outer collar.

The video progresses with instructions on creating the front button placket, including mirroring the neckline curve, creating a button stand, and adding a facing. Izzy also shows how to mark button and buttonhole positions and add notches for alignment.

The tutorial progresses with instructions on creating pattern pieces for the collar, collar stand, front bodice, and back bodice, including adding seam allowances and annotations.

The tutorial progresses with instructions on sewing the darts, preparing the button stand, attaching the collar stand to the bodice, sewing the collar pieces, attaching the collar to the collar stand, and finishing the collar stand. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including trimming and clipping the seams.

Izzy concludes by showcasing the finished standing collar top, highlighting its traditional look and the impact of design choices on the collar's appearance. She encourages viewers to experiment with different collar depths and shapes.

Watch next: Collars - How to Draft a Shawl Collar

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