03/11/2023

Part 22 – Sewing up Your Bodice Block

In this video, Izzy guides viewers through the process of adding seam allowances to a drafted bodice block, cutting out a toile (practice garment), and sewing it together. Emphasising accuracy over speed, she explains that this first toile is a crucial step in achieving a perfect fit, acknowledging that adjustments will likely be necessary.

Izzy begins by demonstrating how to trace the bodice block onto tracing paper and add a 1.5 cm seam allowance to the side and shoulder seams. She highlights the importance of creating an opening at the back for fitting, adding a seam allowance to the center back as well. Detailed instructions are provided for labeling the pattern pieces, including grain lines and stitch lines, to ensure accuracy during sewing.

Next, the video transitions to cutting out the toile from Calico fabric, stressing the significance of aligning the pattern pieces with the fabric's grainline for proper garment drape. Izzy demonstrates how to use carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer pattern markings onto the fabric, ensuring both sides of each piece are marked.

The tutorial then focuses on sewing the darts, providing a step-by-step guide to pinning and stitching for a sharp, smooth finish. Izzy advises using a shorter stitch length near the dart point and avoiding backstitching at the end to minimize bulk. She also demonstrates how to properly press the darts using a tailor’s ham.

Finally, Izzy guides viewers through sewing the shoulder and side seams, emphasizing the importance of aligning the marked stitch lines. She concludes by demonstrating how to press the seams open, resulting in a completed bodice toile ready for fitting. The video concludes with a preview of the next episode, which will focus on fitting the toile and making necessary adjustments.

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Part 21 – Drafting a Bodice Block