07/08/2023

Part 15 - Drafting a Straight Waistband

This tutorial shows how to create a simple straight waistband, suitable for skirts, trousers, and elasticated waists. Izzy uses a skirt block but the method is adaptable. First, measure the garment's waist, including dart allowances, and double the front and back measurements to calculate the total waistband length.

Determine the desired finished waistband width (3-5cm suggested) and double it for the pattern. Draw a rectangle matching the calculated length and doubled width. Mark the center fold line and key points (side seams, center front/back). Add a 4cm underlap (plus seam allowance) to one end for a button closure, marking button/buttonhole placement.

Add 1.5cm seam allowances around the waistband pattern. Mark the fold line, notches for key points, and button placement. The grainline runs parallel to the long edge. Label the pattern "straight waistband" and "cut one."

Cut the waistband, marking button/buttonhole positions. Finish the waistband's inside edge (folding, binding, or overlocking). Attach it to the garment (right sides together), matching notches and easing curves.

Sew, then press the seam allowance upwards. Fold the waistband along the marked line, right sides together, and pin. Sew the buttonhole side closed. On the button side, temporarily fold the seam allowance back for alignment before sewing. Snip corners.

Turn the waistband right side out, fold the remaining raw edge in, and iron. Stitch in the ditch to secure. Add a label. Create the buttonhole and attach the button. The finished waistband offers a neat, professional closure. Izzy encourages sharing creations.

Watch ‘Drafting a Shaped Waistband’ next.

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Part 14 - Drafting a Faced Waistband

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Part 16 - Drafting a Shaped Waistband