03/11/2023

Part 16 - Drafting a Shaped Waistband

This tutorial demonstrates creating a shaped, continuous waistband. Izzy uses a skirt block, but the technique adapts to various garments. First, mark the desired waistband depth on the garment pattern, creating a curved line. Remove dart volume from the waistband pattern pieces. Prepare your garment pattern, ensuring a 1.5cm seam allowance at the top.

Calculate waistband dimensions: Measure the top and bottom lengths of the waistband on the front and back pattern pieces, double them, and add them together to find the total top and bottom waistband lengths. Calculate the difference between these totals.

Draw a rectangle on paper, its length matching the top waistband length and its width the desired waistband depth. Mark side seam points. Divide the bottom of the rectangle and add volume at pivot points, calculated by dividing the circumference difference by the number of sections. Smooth the resulting lines into a curve.

Add 1.5cm seam allowances to all sides of the curved waistband pattern. Mark side seam notches. The grainline is perpendicular to the side seam. Label the pattern and mark to "cut two."

Cut the fabric. Sew the top edges of the two waistband pieces together. Press the seam allowance towards the underside and optionally understitch. Fold the waistband's raw bottom edge under 1.5cm and iron. Attach the waistband to the garment (right sides together), matching notches and easing curves.

For a zipper, insert it, aligning it with the waistband's top edge. Fold the waistband over and pin, encasing raw edges. Stitch in the ditch to secure the inner layer. Add a label. Turn the waistband and showcase the finished shaped waistband. Izzy encourages sharing creations.

Watch ‘Drafting a Wide Waistband’ next.

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Part 15 - Drafting a Straight Waistband

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Part 17 - Drafting a Wide Waistband