07/08/2023

Part 13 - Drafting a Cowl Skirt

This video tutorial demonstrates how to draft a cowl skirt pattern from a basic skirt block. Izzy explains that the cowl skirt features extra volume around the hips, creating a draped effect.

The video begins by instructing viewers to trace their skirt front and back block patterns. Izzy then guides viewers through the process of determining the placement and depth of the cowl. She explains how to measure and divide the distance from the center front to the dart, marking a point on the waistline. She then shows how to decide the depth of the cowl, suggesting viewers research different cowl styles for inspiration.

Izzy demonstrates how to create the curved lines that define the cowl shape, using the marked points on the waistline and side seam as guides. She advises using a flexible ruler or French curve to achieve smooth, flowing lines. She also explains how to adjust the curves based on individual preferences.

The next step involves cutting the pattern pieces along the drawn cowl lines, effectively removing the dart volume. Izzy emphasizes the importance of labeling each pattern piece clearly to avoid confusion.

She then demonstrates how to manipulate the pattern pieces to create the desired volume. By pivoting the pattern pieces at the hemline and spreading them at the waistline, she shows how to add extra fabric, which will form the cowl. She stresses the importance of keeping the hemline width consistent with the original skirt block.

Izzy then guides viewers through tracing the adjusted pattern pieces, adding seam allowances, and marking the grainline. She explains that the grainline should be perpendicular to the hemline, which will result in the side seams being cut on the bias, enhancing the drape of the cowl. She also recommends adding notches at the hip line and marking the centre front and centre back.

The video then briefly covers the sewing process, including sewing the center front and center back seams, attaching the side seams, and finishing the hem and waistband. Izzy emphasizes that the focus of the tutorial is on pattern drafting, not detailed sewing instructions. She mentions clipping the curved seams to reduce bulk and allow the fabric to drape properly.

Izzy showcases the finished cowl skirt, highlighting the dramatic effect of the draped fabric around the hips. She encourages viewers to experiment with different cowl depths and shapes to create unique designs. She also reminds viewers that fabric choice will significantly impact the final look of the skirt.

Watch Drafting a Faced Waistband’ next

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Part 12 - Drafting a Wrap Skirt

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Part 14 - Drafting a Faced Waistband