Part 9 - Drafting an Inverted Pleated Skirt
This video tutorial demonstrates how to draft a skirt pattern with inverted pleats, focusing on a design with two pleats at the front and one at the back. Izzy explains that this design can be adapted with more or fewer pleats, and the pleat height can be adjusted to dramatically alter the skirt's look and fit.
The video begins with tracing the basic skirt block pattern. Izzy uses a computer-generated block for clarity but recommends using personally drafted blocks for accurate fit. For the back skirt, the tutorial shows how to add volume to create the inverted pleat. This is done by adding extra paper to the pattern and marking out the pleat allowance. The back skirt piece is then attached to this extended section.
The front skirt pattern requires a slightly different approach. Izzy explains how to divide the front skirt into panels and incorporate the dart into the side seam. Then, similar to the back, extra paper is added to create the pleat allowances for the two front pleats.
The tutorial then covers adding seam allowances to the newly drafted pattern pieces, marking the grainline, and annotating the pattern with key information, including pleat fold lines and stitch lines. Izzy emphasises the importance of accurate markings for successful pleat construction.
The video briefly touches upon the sewing process, demonstrating how to construct the inverted pleats by folding and stitching the fabric according to the marked lines. She also covers joining the front and back skirt pieces at the side seams, leaving an opening for a zip. The video concludes with a brief overview of hemming and waistband finishing, though these aspects are not covered in detail.
Izzy showcases the finished skirt, highlighting the inverted pleats and their effect on the skirt's shape and movement. She suggests various design adaptations, such as altering the pleat height or adding more pleats, and encourages viewers to share their creations on the Minerva community.
Watch ‘Drafting a Feature Flared Skirt’ next