09/09/2024

Part 59 - How to Draft a Flat Collar with a Low Neckline

In this video, Izzy demonstrates how to adapt a bespoke bodice block to create a low collar neckline.

Izzy begins by outlining the tools required and explains that a combined waist dart block will be used for simplicity. She advises viewers to refer to video 45 if they need help adapting their block.

The tutorial starts by drafting a low neckline, which will be further tweaked. Izzy then shows how to create a dart in the bust area to ensure the fabric sits flat against the bust. She guides viewers through drawing, cutting, and transferring the dart volume.

Next, Izzy demonstrates how to shape the collar by overlapping the back bodice with the front. She then shows how to manipulate the collar pattern by dividing it into sections and overlapping them to create a curved shape. Izzy also shows how to create the under collar, which is slightly smaller than the upper collar.

The video progresses with instructions on creating the front button placket, marking button and buttonhole positions, and adding a facing. Izzy also shows how to redraw the waist dart.

The tutorial progresses with instructions on creating pattern pieces for the collars, front bodice, and facings, including adding seam allowances and annotations.

The tutorial progresses with instructions on sewing the darts, attaching the facing pieces, sewing the collar pieces, attaching the collar to the bodice, and attaching the facing to the bodice. Izzy guides viewers through each step, including trimming and clipping the seams.

Izzy concludes by showcasing the finished low collar top, highlighting its elegance and the impact of the bodice tweaks on the collar's fit.

Watch next: Collars - How to Draft a Grown on Collar

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