Part 71 - Sleeve block alterations - Sleeve too loose / tight
In this video, Izzy addresses common sleeve fit issues related to the overall size. If the sleeve feels too tight, evidenced by gathers and puckers along the arm due to a lack of space, the solution involves increasing the sleeve's overall volume. This is achieved by cutting along the center line and key points of the sleeve cap, leaving pivot points, and then spreading the pattern pieces by the desired amount, such as two centimeters. Subsequently, the sleeve cap is redrawn with a smooth curve, and optionally, the width at the wrist can be reduced if necessary. Finally, the adjusted pattern is traced onto the original block.
Conversely, if the sleeve is too big, characterised by excess volume and fabric pooling around the arm, the remedy is to reduce the sleeve's overall width. This entails cutting along the center line of the sleeve and overlapping the pattern pieces by the required amount, again, for example, two centimeters. The sleeve cap is then reshaped with a smooth curve, and the adjusted pattern is traced onto the original block.
It's crucial to consider the overall proportions and maintain a smooth curve for the sleeve cap when making adjustments. The necessary adjustment amount will vary depending on individual measurements and preferences. Tracing the adjusted pattern onto the original block aids in keeping a record of changes. Izzy suggests that most of the needed adjustment typically occurs in the upper three-quarters of the sleeve. She also notes that pattern drafters have varying styles regarding the curve at the sleeve's bottom. It's important to pin out the excess fabric when fitting the sleeve to determine the amount of fabric that needs to be removed. Testing the fit by creating a toile (muslin) of the adjusted pattern is also recommended.
Watch next: Sleeves - Adjusting a Short Sleeve Head