04/03/2024

Part 36 – Bodice Block Alterations – Full Bust Adjustment

This video focuses on performing a full bust adjustment (FBA) on a bodice block. Izzy emphasises that even with a custom-drafted block, adjustments are often necessary.

She begins by explaining how to identify the need for an FBA, noting the telltale signs of drag lines radiating from the bust. Izzy clarifies that while she demonstrates one FBA technique, variations may be needed depending on dart placement and pattern drafting.

The video then moves to the pattern alteration process. Izzy recommends tracing the front bodice block onto paper for the alteration. She demonstrates how to temporarily close the neckline dart, transferring its volume to the side seam.

Next, Izzy draws several guide lines: a perpendicular line from the center front to the bust apex, a line from the center of the waist dart to the apex, and a line from the apex to a point on the armscye. She then cuts along these lines, creating pivot points at the apex and armscye.

Izzy explains how to determine the amount of volume to add, emphasizing that it should be half the desired increase in bust circumference. She demonstrates how to pivot the pattern pieces to add the calculated volume, creating a gap that represents the FBA.

Izzy then demonstrates how to redraw the pattern, extending the center front and adjusting the waist dart to accommodate the added volume. She also shows how to redraw the bust dart, ensuring it points to the new apex location.

Finally, Izzy explains how to reopen the neckline dart and transfer the adjusted pattern markings onto the original bodice block. She emphasises the importance of making a toile to check the fit and apex location.

Watch next: Fit Adjustments - Balance for an Upright Figure

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Part 35 – Bodice Block Alterations – Rounded Back Adjustment

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Part 37 - Bodice Block Alterations - Balance for an Upright Figure